Mysterious Svaneti

24 August- 2 September

We are hardly in Tbilisi, when we see that the weather forecast for the Higher Caucasus looks good for the coming week. So, we put our bikes on the train to Zugdidi, close to the border with Abkhasia. From there we will ride to Svaneti: 'Beautiful, wild and mysterious, Svaneti is an ancient land locked in the Caucasus, so remote that it was never tamed by any ruler. Uniquely pittoresque villages and snow-covered, 4000 m plus peaks rising above flower strewn alpine meadows. Svaneti's emblem is the koshki (defensive stone tower) designed to house villagers at times of invasion and local strife (until recently Svaneti was renowned for its murderous blood feuds). Around 175 koshkebi, most originally built between the 9th and 13th centuries, survive here today'. 

From Zugdidi we follow the Enguri valley for 150 km to Mestia. It is only after 111 km that the steep valley starts to open up and reveals the snow-capped mountains and grassy spots ideal for camping.

On our way to Mestia we eat a good, sizzling hot, fresh from the oven Kachapuri (freshly baked flat bread with cheese added to the dough), with view on the Enguri reservoir, followed by water melon.

We climb through steep valleys

Camp near a creek with view on snow-capped mountains

We see the first koshkebi with Mount Tetnuldi (4858 m) in the background

and finally arrive in Mestia

We walk to the Koruldi lakes, which is 1600 m altitude difference. It causes us very sore muscles. But the views are stunning.

We see the Twin Peaks of Mount Ushba, the Matterhorn of the Caucasus (4710 m) with some flowers

We see other tourists, that slept longer and arrived earlier

We see more mountains

and the Twin Peaks of Mount Ushba again and again

sometimes also with some horses

 We also finally arrive at the Koruldi lakes

And back down we discover a bush with wild goji berries. They taste very sour.

Then we head for Ushguli (2200 m), the highest village that is inhabited all year round in Europe. We wonder whether Georgia is part of Europe and whether there are indeed no higher villages in the Alps.

The road is still good, although it was said to be unpaved. Recent and ongoing road construction work has improved the road a lot.

There are even more villages with koshkebi

And another one, that we climb. It is called the Love tower.

We accept the apologies of the roads department of Georgia for what is coming

We respect the speed limit. Others don't.

We pass a narrow gorge

And a jeep passes us causing lots of dust

We pass a big pool very cautiously and don't get wet feet

whereas others pass the pool a bit less cautiously

And we continue and continue

to finally arrive in Ushguli with many skyscrapers

In Ushguli we stay 4 nights in the garden of a guesthouse and we have a beautiful view on Mount Shkhara (5193 m).

It looks like this in the evening

And like this in the morning

We hike to the Shkhara glacier and enjoy the landscape

whereas others work hard and are haying

and we see others ride a horse

 The next day we make another hike because we want to see a glimpse of Mount Elbrus. But before we reach the summit of Gvinari (2943 m), clouds hide Mount Elbrus.
So we see mountains nearby

And hike through rhododendrons that don't flower anymore. We also eat hands full of blueberries

We see Ushguli in the depth of the valley

And we survive a terrible thunderstorm, but the tent doesn't. We have put the tent on a wrong spot. It takes water from the roof from the guesthouse and all water streams tend to stream to our tent, so that we are on a kind of water bed after a while. The bottom leaks and when the tent dries, tension due to shrinking makes the tent tear, so we have a tent repair day.

Then we continue to Zagaro pass (2614 m). There are many stories among bikers how bad the road is and from which side you best approach it. A group of Russians is absolutely sure we approach the pass from the wrong side. A German young lady gets visibly nervous, but she leaves one day before us and we do not seen her again, which we take as a sign that she made it.

The road is tough, but manageable

It is hard work though

and it is also hard work to get all the hay on board

Sometimes it is too hard

But finally we arrive on Zagaro pass, where I allow myself to make a selfie

And then we ride down, which is not relaxing at all. The road is steeper and technically much more difficult. It is also much wetter with lots of water streams crossing the road.
We pass by an abandoned village (Koruldashi) with the Koruldash glacier in the background.

We criss-cross between stones and water puddles

We stop on dangerous places

or continue on dangerous places

and try to pronounce the names on the road signs, but we can't.

The asphalt road starts much earlier then we expected thanks to continuing road works and we proceed quickly to Tsageri where we make a plan for the coming week.