Hospitality in Shiraz

We stayed 4 days in Shiraz and were overwhelmed by the hospitality of two Shirazi families. Family Rasoulian (the family of Sara, the girlfriend of Mathias a couchsurfing guest we met a couple of months ago) welcomed us on the airport in the middle of the night/early morning and organized transport for our bikes and luggage to their home where we could stay in the bedroom of Mohammed (son).

In the coming two days there is a lot to organize and we got the full support from Ali (father) and Mohammed to make our arrangements: SIM card, SIM card credit, bank card and money exchange, as well as gas bulbs. Unfortunately, various attempts to get my iphone registered (a new law in Iran to prevent illegal import of smartphones) are fruitless and also several other connections in Iran, as well as the officials on the airport, can’t tell us what to do. Friends tell us that the law is in effect but that the procedures still don’t work. Unfortunately, for me the consequence is that after 1 month my iphone will get blocked and the only possible solution seems to be to buy another smartphone ☹. After I receive the SIM card, which also caused some trouble, I manage to let the whole credit on the card disappear within 30 seconds, by calling my parents, so Mohammed kindly organizes me a new credit and patiently explains to me that regular phone calls into The Netherlands are probably not a good idea and very costly, but instead I should use Whatsapp.

In the meantime we visit various sights of interest in Shiraz, while Sara’s mother (Ferry) and later Mrs. Zahedi, prepares us delicious meals typical for Shiraz or Iran.  Then it is time to go and Ali and Mohamed accompany us in the car while we are riding our bikes through the not-so-crazy-as-expected-traffic to our new hosting family Mr and Mrs Zahedi. Actually, the traffic is not much worse than in Napels, but this may be thanks to the fact that it is Friday. We say farewell to the Rasoulian family and to my surprise Mohammed kisses me three times on the cheeks. I didn’t expect this, as men and women that are not related are not expected to touch each other, especially not in public. Also Martin is kissed three times 😊.

Mr Asad Zahedi accompanies us to a nearby park, where Iranian families are picnicking. He also borrows us his bus card, so we can conveniently use the bus. By the way, in city buses men and women are expected to travel in different compartments, women in the back.

While with the Zahedi family it strikes us that Mrs Zahedi stays in the kitchen and she does not join us and Mr. Asad Asedi during the meals. But she does want her share of the fun and Mr Asad Asedi crossfires us with questions coming from Mrs. Asedi in the kitchen. 

Below a couple of pictures taken in Shiraz.

Buying a SIM card. In Iran people still put effort in repairing iPhones. 

Lunch with the Rasoulian family (picture taken by Mohammed)

Kalampulu, saffron rice with tiny meat balls

Tadigh, the crust of the rice at the bottom of the pan, is a delicatesse in Iran

Three types of typical Iranian flatbread. This bread is eaten with any meal. At breakfast it gets accompanied with honey, jam, nuts, dates,... Another variation of a breakfast is a thick soup of vegetables and beans, called 'ash'. Particularly for 'ash' my stomach was really grateful.

Mr Ali Rasoulian trying Swiss and Dutch cheese (paneer)

Eating faloodeh, the ice cream specialty of Shiraz. It is a kind of vermicelli mixed with sorbet ice, in our case with orange taste.

Street food: Small sour prunes with some salt

Visiting the tomb of Hafez. The tomb is located in a small garden. Hafez is a famous Shirazi poet, who wrote lyrical poems about love and the beloved.

Visiting the Mausoleum of Shah Cheragh (king of the lamp), which is a famous religious site in Iran, where up to 12'000 people gather at religious holidays, requires wearing a chador. The literal translation of chador is tent. Well, for sure, when I am wearing one it does look like a tent. Later on, when we got accompanied by a guide from the Ministry of International Affairs, she re-did the wrapping, but it still didn't feel comfortable. The guide also told us that we aren't allowed to bring our camera's., however, we are allowed to bring our smart phones and take as many pictures as we like.Below an impression of this immense site.

 

Below: Masjed e Nasir al Molk mosque. I first thought the guy bending forward was a praying Muslim but he appeared to be a Dutch man taking pictures of the roof

 

Below: The Vakil Bazar. The bazar appears to sell mainly non-food stuff. It is located in an enormous building and connected to other bazars. Within the building several caravanserais are located, indicated that also in the far past this location served as a trade center.

Below: Eram Garden, one of Shiraz's beautiful gardens. This romantic and beautiful park is home to love pairs that try to hide away and steal a kiss or have conversations with their lovers.

Ali and Mohammed Rasoulian hand us safely over to Mr. Zahedi