15/04/2018

Our first rides...

After visiting Persepolis, of which I will not share any pictures and information, as there is plenty of it on the internet, we started our trip to Yasuj, a small city of 200'000 inhabitants somewhere between Shiraz and Esfehan. The night before we camped in an idyllic garden of a hotel and had diner in a traditional Persian restaurant, which means that you sit elegantly on a carpet and try to stay in that position until the end of the meal without any cramps, which at the moment is still a too big challenge.
On our first day we visit the tomb of Darius the Great, who managed to conquer and unite all big civilisations at that time (around 500 BC). We were explained that he was the only king with the name 'The Great'. The reason for that was that he was the only king having only one wife, whereas the others had a harem.
We manage to cycle 70 kms the first day, thanks to the fact that the route is completely mountainless. We find a spot near an almost dry river and in the evening and early morning we get harassed by numerous sheeps and goats, belonging to the nomads camping a few hundred meters upstream. The presence of people, wherever we camp, turns out to be a problem, as no-one, men and women are supposed to show any part of their body to the outer world, so washing, changing clothes and other practical and sanitary activities are supposed to be carried out...when? In the dark??? In the tent?
The next day we cycle to 'Lost Paradise', only a short stretch. The Paradise turns out to be quite lost indeed, since multiple picnicking families turned the place into a river of garbage. Very sad indeed.
From Lost Paradise to Tangh-e-Boragh is a quite a bit more hilly with lots of steep stretches. Again we camp at the river and get harassed by sheeps and goats and quite a lot of rain.
Then we have to cross the Zagreb mountains from east to west via a 2650 m high pass with ski area. Not a long stretch, but about 2000 m of altitude difference, so we plan two days to do this and the first day we manage to ride 800 altitude meters and only 37.7 km, with an average speed of only 10 km/hr. The Zagros mountains are really steep, our legs untrained and our luggage and bikes very heavy. We camp in an orchard, which turns out to be a mistake. Read it in the next episode.

Below a couple of pictures of the landscape. Our impression: Very very dry and dusty. The irrigation channels are empty and still rice is cultivated. No idea where the water comes from. Quite a lot of traffic in the beginning getting less and less during the days. Landscape quite littered (as opposed to surprisingly clean Shiraz). Still the landscape is impressive.


Approaching the Tomb of Darius the Great

Relief detail in one of the tombs

Mesa in dry landscape

Nice camping spot near an almost dry river

When you have to cross the 'almost-dry-river' the dryness perception turns out to be much wetter

The lake feeding the almost-dry-river and the empty irrigation channels has an extremely low level

Waterfall in Lost Paradise. While strolling around we discovered a 'Suonen' feeding the waterfall. We felt betrayed.

Iranian family enjoying Lost Paradise

Martin enjoying Lost Paradise

Various means of transportation: Normal car on road, nomad with herd on road, crazy guy on a bike and in the background the new highway in construction

Unexpected stretch of unpaved road

Colourful landscape with rain coming soon

Martin conquering a steep stretch

Camping in the orchard


 

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